Portrait

Christophe Dumarest

The objective is to combine the technical and aesthetic aspects of climbing with harmony and sharing within the group.

Born “in a backpack” in Annecy, on skis at 2 and a half years old, at 4000m before 10 years old, the practice of the mountain has always been part of my life. Trained by my family, then by the CAF (regional team) and FFME (national team) teams, it is naturally that I became a guide in 2009.

Driven by the search for new routes as much as by human relationships, I try to put the best of myself in my practice of mountaineering.

With P. Gabarrou in the Alps I was able to realize dreams that I thought were impossible: an opening in winter in the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (6 days), in the South Face of the Mt-Blanc or in the Dérobé pillar of Freney.

At the same time with A.Clouet I discovered some of the most beautiful walls in the world: the Sphinx and “La Cruz del Sur” in Peru, the “Rimmon route” in winter at the Troll Wall in Norway, “Chercheurs d’Absolu” and the “Super Couloir” at Fitz Roy/Chalten in Patagonia but also: Tibet, Chile, Alaska, the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.

Today, it is by trying to limit my long-haul flights and through journeys of several days as close as possible to the Alps that I fully realize myself.

The crossing of the Ecrins, the one from the Mont Rose to the Matterhorn, the tour of the Fiz chain, the Bonatti chain, or the crossing of the Chartreuse by the climbing routes, are all itineraries and encounters that I wish to continue to nourish.

From these adventures, near or far, which over the years have become my way of life, a natural and protean sharing is born. A transmission through films: “Le Méridien des Ecrins”, “Sur le Fil de l’amitié”, “La Voie Bonatti”, “Verticale Boréale”, “Inside” but also texts (with Alpes Magazine in particular), during conferences for the general public or in companies, and of course when time permits, through the passion of the guide’s job.

MY INVOLVEMENT IN ASSOCIATIONS

Ocean Peak

I am co-founder of the association Ocean Peak which continues to develop day after day thanks to its coordinator Matra Güemes and a strong base of volunteers.

Ocean Peak’s breakaway programs are designed to offer teenagers in great difficulty the opportunity to take part in a collective adventure.

By joining this collective, we give the possibility to socially disaffiliated youth to regain their footing in an unfamiliar environment. To take a break, to mark a time between brackets to finally imagine a new start.
We bet that new relational modalities can emerge thanks to the meeting of adults ready to share on the ground of their passion. During a small sea/mountain expedition, we hope that teenagers from all over the world will be able to live strong moments.
We will be there to accompany them in writing what tomorrow will be part of their life story.

Acts for the Summits

I am a co-founder of the ACTS association, along with the world climbing champion Arnaud Petit.

We, professionals and personalities of the mountain, have the duty to commit ourselves
in a concrete way to preserve our environment.
The Covid crisis has led us to slow down, to consume less, to think locally. To think also about
to think about how we can be in line with our convictions when we resume our activities. Today, in the face of the environmental emergency
environmental emergency, we wish to commit ourselves to…

… reduce our travel and consumption,
… to get involved in politics or in associations,
… invite the outdoor industry to increase its efforts to reduce its impact.

These are the ambitions that will guide our projects and actions. These ambitions have been broken down into 10 commitments.

Acts for the Summits

I am a co-founder of the ACTS association, along with the world climbing champion Arnaud Petit.

We, professionals and personalities of the mountain, have the duty to commit ourselves
in a concrete way to preserve our environment.
The Covid crisis has led us to slow down, to consume less, to think locally. To think also about
to think about how we can be in line with our convictions when we resume our activities. Today, in the face of the environmental emergency
environmental emergency, we wish to commit ourselves to…

… reduce our travel and consumption,
… to get involved in politics or in associations,
… invite the outdoor industry to increase its efforts to reduce its impact.

These are the ambitions that will guide our projects and actions. These ambitions have been broken down into 10 commitments.

Photographs: Marc Daviet / Antoine Mesnage / Ocean Peak / Hugo Wirth